Editor’s pick

Restaurant review: Guoman’s Rhodes W1 restaurant at The Cumberland

Situated at the top end of Park Lane and the smart end of Oxford Street, you could say The Cumberland’s Rhodes W1 restaurant has the location, location, location thing down pat.

And if the location pleases, you’ll be positively thrilled to know that things just get better – step inside Gary Rhodes-fronted restaurant and you’ll find a seductively serene interior.

An oyster-coloured décor, tactile textures of suede and brushed metal, and cascades of twinkling crystal chandeliers leave the diner feeling as though they’ve found an epicurean den, known only to a select few.

But it is the food that steals the show.

The foie gras in the Balloutine of foie gras, sultana gingerbread and pineapple chutney starter was creamy without being cloying, with the spiciness and sharpness of the ginger and pineapple offering a perfectly pitched contrast to it.

Next was the Spiced Anjou pigeon with prune, roast baby artichokes and molasses main, where the richness of the prune and molasses nicely rounded off that of the pigeon.

Finally, the Cranachan flapjack, iced whisky, honeycomb and raspberry dessert – a Rhodes take on the classic Scottish sweet – saw the creation of a sinfully creamy pud of chewy oats and sticky honeycomb.

With the sommelier choosing a wine to complement each course (served in half glasses – perfect for those on business who don’t want to drink too much), the meal was a sophisticated and elegant pairing of flavours – and without doubt one of the best I’ve ever had.

To find out more, call Expotel on 0844 793 7300.

Rhodes W1
The Cumberland (Guoman)
London

Food served: Tues to Sat: lunch midday–2.15pm; dinner 7–10.15pm.
Price guide: Two-course lunch from £19.95; wine from £24
We loved… Foie gras, sultana gingerbread and pineapple chutney

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